Ubon Ratchathani is the shortest land link to southern Laos whose pristine waterfalls and beguiling nature would snare many a heart
Published: 6/05/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Most waterfalls lack flourish in summer but not the Khone Phapheng in Champasak Province of southern Laos which, thanks to the mighty Mekong River, rages almost unabated all year round, venting its fury against huge boulders standing in its path.
Stretching the breadth of the Mekong, the Khone Phapheng is strewn with rocks of all size, and the roar of the waves crashing against them is so loud it can be heard from miles away.
''Summer is the time when the waterfall is at its peak beauty because the water is clear,'' said Dalath Khampaseuth, my local tour guide when I visited the fall recently, before adding, ''the water turns brick-red during rainy season when no one can swim nor ride a boat across the Khone Phapheng because the cascades are too strong, the layout rocky and unnavigable, and any such attempt can result in death.''
Visitors observe the waterfall from a designated viewpoint. Though risky, some climb down the cliff on which it is built for a closer view. They sit on boulders absorbing the scenery dotted with fishermen casting their nets in the fast-flowing river. But they can't venture this far during rainy season when the level of water is quite high submerging everything in view.
From the viewpoint you get a panoramic view of Khone Phapheng dubbed the Niagara of Asia. Besides the cascades in the middle of the river, there are others, smaller ones, which flow into the Mekong. Khone Phapheng marks the end of the Mekong's passage through Laos before the river curves and crosses into Cambodia.
We were only given 30 minutes to admire the waterfall, though it took us about two hours to drive there from Pakse. The two-lane road leading to the fall was in good condition and the traffic easy. But you couldn't drive fast because you ran the risk of pigs or cattle cutting into your path any time.
If you have extra days to spend, visit Li Phi Waterfall, Si Phan Don (4,000 Islands) and Wat Phu, a Unesco World Heritage site.
The closest point for crossing into southern Laos from Thailand is the Chong Mek border checkpoint in Ubon Ratchathani, home to pre-historic rock paintings at Pha Taem National Park. Alternatively, you can hire a long-tailed boat in Khong Chiam district for a cruise on the Mekong.
For its part, Ubon Ratchathani has the makings of a potential hub for visitors crossing from Thailand into southern Laos and travelling onto Cambodia and Vietnam, a point that's not lost on domestic carrier Nok Air, which recently has been looking at the northeast Isan region with renewed interest and where, asserts its Vice President _ Coporate Communications Suriyapa Bunnag, ''There remain many hidden gems along the Mekong and Moon rivers waiting to be explored.''
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